Alaska Range

San Juan Mountain Guides specializes in leading small private teams to the classic routes of the Alaska Range. These frozen walls and glaciers have been testing and inspiring alpinists for generations, and our guides can give you the best shot at success. Instead of offering cookie-cutter group expeditions, SJMG only does trips with individuals and private groups. We believe that this is the best way to tackle technical routes and offer the highest margins of security and enjoyment. We recommend that you spend some time in Ouray beforehand to train with your guide. Good preparation is vital to success.The number of objectives and types of climbing in the Alaska Range is staggering, but some of the perennial favorites are:

Mooses Tooth: Ham and Eggs, Shaken not Stirred
Pk 11,300 SW Ridge
Mt Huntington
Mt Hunter
Mt. Dickey, Mt Barrille, Mt Dan Beard
Ruth Gorge
Mini Moonflower, Mt Frances, Kahiltna Queen
Thunder Mountain
Little Switzerland
Mt Russell

The best way to set up your own Alaska adventure is to figure out what dates work best for your schedule. In general, late April through June is the best window for traditional mixed alpinism in the range. Although each route has its own characteristics. Often we can go to a certan area and do multiple routes depending on conditions and weather. Alpine climbing in Alaska is full-on. You need to be ready to accept difficult conditions and some hard days, but the climbing can be unbelievable.

We require a minimum of 8 days, but recommend more depending on your schedule and the desired objectives for the trip. Our 2009 Rates are $400-$600 per day depending on the itinerary, including expedition food, transport from Anchorage to Talkeetna, and flight into the glacier. Call to discuss what would be the best itinerary for you. Our most popular program is a 10-day Ruth Gorge or Root Canal Glacier Expedition ($4500 1:1).